Offset printing is a traditional, high-quality printing method used to produce things like brochures, magazines, catalogs, and packaging—especially in larger quantities.
Instead of printing directly onto the paper, offset printing works like this:
Ink is first applied to a metal plate that has the design or image.
The image is then transferred—or “offset”—onto a rubber blanket.
That blanket rolls the image onto the paper.
This process is called “offset” because the image doesn’t go directly from the plate to the paper.
Excellent quality – Sharp text, rich colors, and consistent results.
Cost-effective in bulk – The more you print, the cheaper each piece becomes.
Custom options – Works with special inks (like metallics), coatings, and paper types.
Perfect for:
Catalogs
Magazines
Large runs of brochures or stationery
Packaging
High-quality results
Great color matching (especially with Pantone inks)
Cheaper per piece in large runs
Works well on a wide range of materials
Slower setup – Plates have to be made, so it takes more time to start.
Not ideal for small batches – More expensive than digital printing for short runs.
Design changes are harder once printing begins.
Digital printing is a modern printing method that prints your file directly onto the paper, similar to how a home or office printer works—but with commercial-grade equipment.
There are no plates involved, which means it’s much faster and easier to start printing.
Fast turnaround – Great for tight deadlines.
Affordable for small quantities – No setup costs like offset.
Flexible – Easy to print different versions (like personalized names or addresses).
Perfect for:
Business cards
Flyers
Short-run brochures
Postcards
Variable data jobs (like mailers)
Quick and cost-effective for small jobs
Easy to make last-minute edits
Ideal for personalized or on-demand printing
No setup time needed
Slightly lower image quality than offset (depending on the machine)
More limited paper and ink options
Higher cost per piece in large quantities
| Feature | Offset Printing | Digital Printing |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Large runs, consistent quality | Short runs, fast turnaround |
| Setup time | Longer (plates required) | Very short (print-ready files) |
| Cost per piece | Low in bulk | Higher per piece |
| Customization | Difficult | Easy (personalized content) |
| Paper & Ink variety | Very wide | More limited |
| Print quality | Highest for detailed images | Excellent, but may vary slightly |
The quality difference can vary from almost negligible to significant. Most photographs and text will reproduce well on our high-end digital press. However, if a job has large solid areas of color, offset printing will achieve much better print quality. Although we print on the best digital presses available on the market, we cannot guarantee offset-quality printing on all short run jobs.
Offset presses print great on any type of paper.
We recommend Cougar or Accent for uncoated stocks.
We recommend for Blazer or ProDigital Gloss stocks.
Digital printing is more eco-friendly because it uses dry ink or toner, which doesn’t emit any VOCs. Also, this printing method produces much less paper waste than offset, because the set-up time is shorter.
We recommend that you use offset printing if:
We recommend that you use digital printing if:
Yes, we can provide you with a soft proof or hard proof for color critical jobs. The soft proof will be sent via email. For color critical orders, we recommend requesting a hard proof.
Yes, however, in order to reduce wash ups and VOCs, we prefer printing with process inks.
This depends on the complexity of your quote request. The vast majority of our estimates are done within 24 hours.
Estimates expire after 30 days. After that period we’ll have to re-do the estimate.
You can call us or reply to the email that you received with your estimate.
Used for: Book Interiors, catalogues, brochures, flyers, CD inserts, notebook paper, newsletters, posters
Used for book covers, postcards, rack cards, business cards, packaging
Used for more colorful prints. Silk, Satin, & Gloss stocks are treated with a special coating that creates different levels of sheen (reflection of light). Since the ink prints on top of the coating and does not get absorbed into the paper, it also reflects light, allowing for more vibrancy. The level of sheen on each stock from highest to lowest is Gloss, Silk, and then Satin. These stocks are great for photography, illustrations, and anything where color vibrance is desired. Note: Many pens do not write well on coated stocks. If there are areas of your project that require writing, it is best to go with an uncoated stock.
Used for prints that color vibrance is not a factor. Uncoated stocks are not treated with a special coating which results in a less reflective, natural paper. Ink is absorbed into the uncoated paper creating muted colors. Uncoated stocks are great for novels, notebook paper, forms, coloring books, journals, and projects that have a natural theme. If there are areas of your project that require writing, it is best to go with an uncoated stock since coated stocks are difficult to write on.
Note: If you print the same colors on coated and uncoated stocks, they will not match. The uncoated paper will produce darker, muted tones. The colors cant be matched even after manipulating their builds.
Plastic paper (waterproof and tear resistant)
Sticker stock
Coroplast
Vinyl (banners)
Foam board
Polyvinyl (window decals)
Mesh (windscreens)
Laminate
PVC
Silver, Gold, Pink, Black
Look: Light sheen—can be gloss, satin, or matte depending on type.
Feel: Smooth and protective.
Use it when: You need basic protection at a low cost.
Pros:
Eco-friendly (water-based).
Good for mailers and brochures.
Dries fast and resists smudging.
Cons:
Not as thick or shiny as UV coating.
Look: Very shiny, high-gloss finish that makes colors pop.
Feel: Slick and smooth to the touch.
Use it when: You want a bold, eye-catching finish with added protection.
Pros:
Extremely glossy and vibrant
Durable and scratch-resistant
Fast drying under UV light
Cons:
Not writable
Can crack if folded
Look: Dull, non-shiny surface with a soft, smooth appearance.
Feel: Smooth but not slippery.
Use it when: You want a subtle, elegant look without glare.
Pros:
Easy to write on.
Gives a high-end, understated feel.
Cons:
Colors may appear less vibrant than with gloss or UV.
Look: Matte or velvety—often compared to peach skin or rose petals.
Feel: Very velvety and smooth to the touch.
Use it when: You want a luxury feel (great for premium business cards or packaging).
Pros:
Unique texture stands out.
Reduces glare and feels upscale.
Cons:
Can show fingerprints or scuffs more easily.
Look: Matte and soft, often with deeper color richness than soft touch.
Feel: Even softer and thicker than soft touch—like a suede fabric.
Use it when: You want a thicker, more premium texture than soft touch.
Pros:
Very plush, tactile finish.
Durable and high-end.
Cons:
Slightly more expensive.
Not for large-scale, budget jobs.
Look: Silky matte—not glossy but with a light, smooth glow.
Feel: Silky smooth, with a soft, coated feel—not as velvety as soft touch.
Use it when: You want a refined, clean appearance with good durability.
Pros:
Tear and water resistant.
Combines elegance with durability.
Cons:
Cannot write on it easily.
More premium than basic matte or gloss.
The simple answer is no. Every device displays color differently. If you open the same image on your phone, your computer, your Ipad, your friends phone, and your friends friends phone, they will all vary. A printed hardcopy proof is the best method to verify color.
Matching colors from order to order is absolutely achievable. Because machines have many variables that affect output, it is important to have a sample from the previous order for the pressman to assure color consistency. If we are printing multiple projects for you and are using multiple output devices, we will make sure that the colors match. It is also important to get a hardcopy proof to verify that the colors are acceptable. Please let us know if your project is color critical. Note: If you are changing from a gloss stock to an uncoated stock from your previous order, colors will not be able to match due to how light reflects colors differently off of those stocks.
Print devices typically use a mix of 4 inks (CMYK) to reproduce the colors from your file onto paper. Even though printing devices are pretty good at mixing CMYK correctly to achieve the desired result, pressmen have the ability to manipulate these colors if needed. PMS colors are premixed and require only one ink rather than mixing four. Using premixed colors will keep a consistent, reliable color output. PMS colors are used for things such as company logos and other company prints that need to be consistent. When you have multiple designers working on your files, it is easy for inconsistencies to occur in the colors they use. If your company uses a PMS color, the designers and the printers know to always use that color.
Each printing device will vary slightly in color. If we are printing multiple projects for you and are using multiple output devices, we will make sure that the colors match. If you are printing a single project with us and you want to keep consistency from a previous print, you can provide a sample from the previous print so we can make sure the color remains consistent. Keep in mind that using different stocks for the same file will affect the ability to match colors.
There is no need to convert your colors ahead of time as we will convert them for you. However, if you desire to have them converted on your end, here are our recommended settings.
Edit / Color settings / CMYK:
Gracol 2006 Coated V2
Edit / Color settings / Gray:
Dot Gain 15%
Print devices use a mix of 4 inks (CMYK) to reproduce the colors from your file onto paper. Cyan(C), Magenta(M), Yellow(Y), and Black(K). If your print file has a large area that is filled with a black color, it is advantageous to use all four colors to build the black rather than only using black. If you only use 100% black, the result will be a very dull black. If you build the black out of all four colors, it will print much darker and richer. A good build for black is 60 Cyan, 40 Magenta, 40 Yellow, 100 Black. Note: Smaller areas of black, especially text, should only be 100% black with no cyan, magenta, or yellow added. This is because each color is applied to the sheet separately. If small text is built with four colors you might see registration issues. This is due to slight variations in the location the ink is applied; i.e., the yellow is a little to the left of the black and the cyan is a little lower than the black making the word appear in different areas and colors. Large areas that do not line up perfectly are not obvious to the eye.
Metallic Silver, Metallic Gold, Neon Pink, White, Clear
Saddle-stitched books are made by folding sheets in half and stapling them along the fold. That fold becomes the spine of the book, and the staples (usually two) hold the pages together.
It’s called “saddle-stitched” because the folded sheets are draped over a piece of equipment that looks like a saddle during the stapling process.
Best for booklets with a low page count (usually 8–64 pages)
Common for:
Event programs
Catalogs
Newsletters
Small magazines
Workbooks and church bulletins
Affordable – Very cost-effective
Fast production
Lays fairly flat when opened
Great for short booklets or marketing pieces
Not ideal for thick books – Pages may not stay flat beyond ~64 pages
No spine printing – You can’t print a title on the spine
Page count must be in multiples of 4 (because the sheets are folded)
Your file has too many pages. It’s best to stay under 64
It is best that you send pages separately. This way there is no confusion of page order.
Perfect binding is a popular method used to create softcover books, where all the pages are glued together at the spine with a strong, flexible adhesive. Then a paper cover (usually thicker stock) wraps around the spine and is trimmed on all three open sides to look neat and “perfect.”
Perfect binding is ideal for thicker books and projects where you want a professional, polished appearance.
Common for:
Paperbacks
Catalogs
Magazines
Reports
Workbooks or manuals
Professional look – Clean, square spine like a store-bought book
Can print on the spine – Great for branding or titles
Good for larger page counts (around 40+ pages)
Stacks well for mailing or shelving
Less durable than sewn binding – Spine can crack with heavy use
Doesn’t lay flat when open
Slightly more expensive than saddle-stitching
Usually used for 40–300 pages
Works best with coated or uncoated interior paper and a heavier cover (often with a gloss or matte finish)
What it is: Pages are punched along the edge and bound with a durable plastic coil that’s twisted through the holes.
Look: Colorful plastic coil loops (often black, white, or blue) spiral through the edge.
Use it when: You need a book that lays flat or folds back on itself—great for workbooks, manuals, cookbooks.
Pros:
Flexible and won’t bend permanently
Lays flat and turns easily
Available in many colors
Cons:
Not as formal or “polished” looking
Not ideal for shelf storage (spine isn’t printable)
What it is: Sometimes used interchangeably with “coil,” but “spiral binding” often refers to metal wire spiraled through the holes (like an old-school notebook).
Look: A continuous wire coil, usually silver or black.
Use it when: You want a sturdy but flexible binding—used often in notebooks and sketch pads.
Pros:
Durable and long-lasting
Lays flat
Cons:
Metal coils can bend or deform
Fewer color options than plastic coil
What it is: Uses pairs of metal loops (like a double wire comb) inserted through square holes and then clamped shut.
Look: Clean, professional finish—more polished than coil or spiral.
Use it when: You need a premium, elegant feel—great for presentations, calendars, planners.
Pros:
Very professional appearance
Lays flat and can fold 360°
Great for adding tabs or index dividers
Cons:
Metal loops can get crushed under pressure
Slightly more expensive than plastic coil
| Binding Type | Lays Flat | Folds Back | Looks Professional | Durable | Spine Printable |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Coil | ✅ | ✅ | Basic | Very | ❌ |
| Spiral (metal) | ✅ | ✅ | Medium | Moderate | ❌ |
| Wire-O | ✅ | ✅ | High-end | Moderate | ❌ |
Gutter
Recommended margin near the spine (inside/gutter):
👉 0.25″ to 0.375″ (6.5 mm to 9.5 mm)
Why?
Pages are folded, so they nest inside each other. While there’s less “gutter loss” than perfect binding, the center can still bow or curve, so leave space for readability.
Recommended inside/gutter margin:
👉 0.5″ to 0.75″ (13 mm to 19 mm)
(Go closer to 0.75″ for thicker books)
Why?
Pages are glued at the spine and don’t lay flat, so more of the inside edge gets hidden or difficult to read. More margin = better readability and appearance.
Recommended binding-side margin:
👉 0.5″ to 0.625″ (13 mm to 16 mm)
Why?
Holes are punched, and coils are inserted. You need to keep text away from those holes so nothing is lost or punched through.
Minimum inside margin for any bound book:
👉 0.5″ is safe, 0.75″ or more for perfect-bound or thick books.
Outside/top/bottom margins:
👉 Usually 0.25″ to 0.5″, but inside margins always need more room.
We need a 1-up, press-ready PDF file with crop marks and bleed. Please see the “Preparing PDF Files” section of this web page for information about creating press-ready PDFs.
Crop marks are printed or drawn lines indicating where the paper should be cut to produce the correct page size.
No. Any desktop publishing software can create crop marks automatically when you export your file into a PDF. In this case, you have to make sure that the trim size is the same as your document size. For example, if the final trimmed size of your business card is 3.5″ x 2″ then your document size must be the same.
No. All files are imposed automatically by our workflow. If you submit the imposed file yourself, chances are that we will have to break it apart and re-impose it.
If any element on your document layout makes contact with the document border you will have to use bleed. The trick is to place the element so that it goes over the border where the document will be cropped after printing.
The term bleed is used for all objects overlapping the border of your document.
No. Conversion from RGB to CMYK is done automatically on our workflow.
We recommend that all images be saved at 300 dpi. We understand that this is not always achievable. A 150 -200 dpi can look ok in some cases, especially if the image is small or faded out in the background. The best way to tell is to view your image at 100% on the screen and if it looks pixelated, it will print that way. Note: If you have a 300 dpi image and you need to enlarge it a great deal, keep in mind that increasing the image will decrease the resolution.
Our site should work with all browsers, however, we recommend the latest version of Microsoft Edge, or Google Chrome.
